The first step a major fashion house takes in the creation of a couture garment is a the toile. The toile is simply a calico garment. By draping calico on the stand a pattern can be created for a one off couture garment, that will perfectly fit the buyer.
As the name implies, this technique is best used for a soft garment rather than a stiff tailored one. Many Couturier designers, such as Lanvin and Chanel provide the drapers with a drawing. Then the drawing is made into a toile and once the toile is made the designer can critique and make changes.
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