Back Stitch

The second most important hand stitches, second to the running stitch. It leaves you with a solid line of stitching which I think is more aesthetically pleasing than a running stitch. I recently used back stitch to make a Fedora.

Sew a single straight stitch. Push your needle up a space ahead, then bring your needle through the same hole as the previous stitch. Continue the process, leaving with an unbroken line of stitching.

Wire Stitch

Wire stitch is a stitch often used in millinery. I recently used the stitch to attach wire around the rim of the wool fedora.

Wire stitch is simply a blanket stitch used to attach a piece of wire to fabric. You will need to hold your wire in position on the end of your fabric. The next step is to push the needle through the fabric from back to front. Do the same stitch again, through the same place and going from back to front. One you pull the needle through this will leave you with a loop going over the wire and holding it in place. Push your needle through the loop you have just made. Move a short distance along and repeat the process.

The Secret World of Millinery: How to make a Fedora

The word Fedora comes from a play "Fedora" by Victorien Sardou . In 1882, the actress Sarah Bernhardt played the role Princess Fedora Romanoff and wore a centre creased soft brim hat. The hat also became popular choice for women's rights activist's. It wasn't until the 1920's, that men began wearing fedoras (popularised by Prince Edward).

Now I've decided to make my own. Using a Stetson crown block and wide circular brim block. I used two bottle green wool felt capeline which I steamed and stretched over the two blocks.

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Traditionally a  milner would sew the entire hat by hand so that's what I did too. Putting the hat together requires three different hand stitches; wire stitch, back stitch and stab stitch.

Wire Stitch

Wire stitch is the stitch I used to sew the wire round the brim.

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Back Stitch

Back stitch is one of the essential hand stitches. I used it to attach the crown and brim.

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Stab Stitch

Stab stitch is the stitch I used to sew petersham around the edge of the brim and sew in the hat band.

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After hours and hours of hand sewing, all that's left to do is add a hat band. Then it will be ready to wear. 

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